Travel

Laos Budget Travel Guide

You wouldn't expect it, since Laos' tourism industry isn't as booming as Thailand's, but it's an amazing country to visit. I'm not sure why people don't visit it more, since it absolutely surprised me. It's filled with beautiful mountains, lush greenery, scenic rushing rivers as well as bustling cities. Not to mention, its French-influence makes their coffee and pastries incredibly delicious. 

Thankfully, Laos isn't as crowded as other Southeast Asian countries. Because of that, I found Laos' culture to be more well-preserved from Western influences. Unfortunately, it's one of the more expensive Southeast Asian countries. So, don't be surprised if your costs are higher. 

Transportation 

Okay, so their transportation system is outdated and kind of sucks. And by sucks, I mean it's a slow, dangerous and bumpy ride. The roads aren't too great and have many potholes. I also found the transportation system to be more expensive. For example, a three hour bus ride ended up costing around 50,000 - 60,000 kip. 

Mini-bus 

Taking a mini-bus is the fastest way to get to different cities. It's easy to book them at a guesthouse or a bus station. Booking at a guesthouse is more convenient since you don't have to make a trip to the station, but you'll be paying a little more (usually just 10,000 kip). If you book at a bus station, it'll be cheaper, but the buses might be full when you get there. 

Depending on your driver, these rides can be a little crazy as they get aggressive and overtake other cars with no hesitation. 

Tuk-Tuks

Getting around a city or to an attraction is easiest by tuk-tuk. They're everywhere, so it's easy to find one. Make sure to ask for pricing and bargain with the driver if you think it's too expensive. Asking other travellers to share a tuk-tuk with you can also cut down on costs. Just note that for attractions, tuk-tuk drivers will wait for it to be full before departing. 

Boat

Some towns will be located by the river, so you'll have the option of using a boat to get to them. We took the two-day slow boat trip from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang. Depending where you are in Laos, some attractions will need a boat to get to them. Also, in northern Laos, you would need to take a boat to some villages. 

Here are some transit guides for the places we went to: 

  1. Northern Thailand to Luang Prabang
  2. Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw
  3. Nong Khiaw/Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng
  4. Vang Vieng to Vientiane

Cities/Towns

Here are the travel guides to the places we visited:

Luang Prabang: A smaller city than Vientiane, but it has tons of activities to do. Kuang Si Waterfall is beautiful and worth the visit. 

Nong Khiaw: This small town in northern Laos has some pretty sweet views. It's nestled along Nam Ou river, surrounded by limestone mountains. 

Vang Vieng: This is the party central of Laos, best known for it's river tubing, caves and adventure treks. 

Vientiane: The bustling capital city of Laos is filled with delicious food. However, there aren't too many things to see. 

Food

Lao food is similar to Thai and Vietnamese cuisine, but with a twist. Here are some of the things we tried. 

Appetizers

  • Fresh Spring Rolls: Fresh greens, noodles and meat are wrapped in rice paper and dipped with a chili fish sauce. These are similar to the Vietnamese spring rolls, but have a different type of meat. Just be careful, since some of the ones we bought were a little dry because they've been left out all day. 10,000 - 15,000 kip. 
  • Spicy Green Papaya Salad: It's a fresh salad that's salty, sweet and spicy. It's made with green papaya, tomatos, fish sauce and chilies. 10,000 - 15,000 kip. 

Mains

  • Laap/larb with sticky rice: It's a minced meat (chicken, pork, beef or fish) salad with mint leaves, fish sauce and lime juice. We love it most with sticky rice. It's a good meal to share. It's usually 30,000 kip and 5,000 kip for sticky rice. 
  • BBQ meats: Meats-on-a-stick can be found everywhere on the streets. There's usually chicken, pork, beef, fish and sausages. Be careful with some of the meats being dry from being overcooked. It can range from 10,000 kip - 40,000 kip depending what you get. 
  • Riverweed with sticky rice: If you like seaweed, you'll probably like riverweed. It looks like a green mushy blob, but it's actually quite tasty. We tried it at our hostel, so I have no idea how much it usually costs. I haven't seen it on too many menus. 
  • Lao Sandwiches: We found these mostly sold on the streets in bigger cities. The ones sold in Vang Vieng seemed more westernized whereas the ones in Vientiane seem more authentic. Both are delicious. The cheapest ones are in Vientiane (5,000 - 10,000 kip) and the pricier ones are in Vang Vieng (10,000 - 40,000 kip). 

Desserts

  • Laos Coffee: Found pretty much everywhere. It's hard to be in Laos without trying it. Try the iced ones with condensed milk! 7,000 - 15,000 kip.
  • Rotee/Paratha: You can find this in other parts of Southeast Asia. It's our favourite street dessert. It's deep-fried and offers different fillings and toppings. Our favourite is banana and chocolate with condensed milk on top. 12,000 - 15,000 kip. 
  • Sweet Coconut Cakes: You can also find this in other parts of Southeast Asia. Usually found at street vendors, they are sweet, creamy and chewy snacks. 10,000 kip 

Costs

Laos is a little pricier than its surrounding neighbours, but don't let that deter you from visiting. It's still quite cheap. 

Our everyday budget ended up being 163, 000 kip per person. Note that we didn't do any tours since all of our adventures are self-guided. We also didn't drink that much, since those costs would add up, but we did get shakes/coffee most days. We like to share our dishes and do not eat more than two meals a day.

Transportation: Pricier than Thailand. 

Food: Pricer than Thailand. Eating Laos food is cheaper than Western food. 

  • 1.5 litre bottle of water = 5,000 kip
  • Bowl of noodles or rice soup = 15,000 kip
  • Laap = 30,000 kip
  • Sticky rice = 5,000 kip
  • Oreos (check the expiry date!) = 10,000 kip
  • Drinks = 10,000 kip

Accommodation: Guesthouses are the most popular form of budget accommodation. Although, it's cheaper if you travel with two people, since you can share the cost of the room. There aren't as many hostels with dorm style here, so your choices would be limited to only a few places if you're solo. Accommodation ranged from 60,000 kip - 120,000 kip for private rooms, depending which city we were in.

Overall, costs are cheaper in smaller towns (Nong Khiaw and Vang Vieng) and pricier in big cities (Luang Prabang and Vientiane). We found that it was better to hang out in smaller towns if you're taking rest or lounging days. 

Also, if you're looking to cut down costs, you can find accommodation and food that's a farther out from the city centre. 

Visa

You'll need a tourist visa to get into Laos. The prices differ depending on what your nationality is. However, I noticed Canadians pay the most at $42 USD. 

You can get the visa at the border crossing, so no need to worry about it beforehand. You can read more about our experiences here

Notes:

  • For accommodation, we usually look up a few places to stay before we head to the next city, so we know what to tell the tuk-tuk driver. You don't have to book in advance, as we never really had a problem with just showing up and asking for a room. If you're up for it, it's better to shop around for a room before committing online. But some days, the travel will tire you out and you'll go with the first place that's affordable and clean. 
  • If you stay in the city centre, most places have everything you need within walking distance. Only the bus station would be located far enough that taking a tuk tuk is worth the money. 
  • The people are friendly here. We've never really had a problem with anyone. They'll try to help you out if you're lost. Just be careful with people trying to scam you for money.
  • Transportation runs on their own time. Almost always, it's late. Usually it's because they're picking up other people. So, if you're planning to catch another bus after, you probably won't make it.
  • Be cautious if you're out late. Try to stay in groups to be safe. 
  • Always buy bottled water to drink and have spare toilet paper. Be prepared to squat at some washrooms - usually the rest stops on the bus. 

Happy Travelling!

 

Transit Guide: Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw

Nong Khiaw is town in northern Laos located by the Ou River, surrounded by limestone mountains. It's a quiet town that offers beautiful views. 

How to get there? 

The best way to get there is to take a bus. It costs around 50,000 - 60,000 kip and takes between 3-4 hours to get there. The roads are pretty bumpy, so be ready for a rocky ride. If you get a window seat, you'll see beautiful landscapes along the way, which will hopefully make up for how terrible the ride is. 

We bought our ticket from our guesthouse for 80,000 kip, which included our tuk tuk ride to the bus station (20,000 kip). Just note that if you decide to purchase at the bus station, you might not be able to get a seat during high season (Dec-Mar). 

When you reach Nong Khiaw, you'll get dropped off at the bus station. It costs 5,000 kip for a tuk tuk ride into town. The bus station is only 2km from the city centre, so feel free to save the money and walk it. Once you get past the bridge, there will be an abundance of guesthouses and restaurants. 

We stayed at Sunrise Guesthouse for 80,000 kip for a room with hot water, wifi and flush toilets. There's also a balcony with hammocks to lay on. 

Happy Travels

Transit Guide: Taking the Slow Boat from Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang

So you want get from Chiang Mai, Thailand to Luang Prabang, Laos on your own? It's actually not that bad once you understand the process. Just note that it takes 3 days to get there with the slow boat. 

You can also arrange a tour to get there that offers to book your travel and accommodation (for only 1 night), which costs around 1750 baht from Chiang Mai. But we decided against it after reading some reviews. We also preferred to book our own accommodation. 

This is how we did it. 

Step 1: Chiang Mai to Chiang Khong

Chiang Khong is the border town of Thailand along the Mekong River. The best way to get there is to take a bus.

Head to Arcade Station in Chiang Mai where you'll need to go to Terminal 3. Buy a ticket to Chiang Khong from Green Bus. As a note, you'll need to take a number and wait your turn to buy your ticket. 

Grab a number to join the queue. 

They flag your bag and staple the number to your ticket. It's like coat check for your bag! 

They have a bus at 8:30 a.m. (266 baht) and 2:30 p.m. (261 baht) for the First Class seating. It takes about 6 hours to get to Chiang Khong. There's no space to bring your pack on the bus with you, so you'll have to place it in the storage at the bottom of the bus. We felt safe leaving it there since they ticket your bag. 

During the ride, they give you a small water bottle and cookies. 

Once you get to Chiang Khong, spend the night here. We stayed at Baan Rimtaling Guest House which offers pretty decent and cheap accommodation. It was 350 baht (total) for a private room with washroom. And on top of that, the room overlooks the Mekong River. 


Step 2: Chiang Khong to Huay Xai (Border Crossing)

The Guest House we stayed in offers a shuttle service to the Friendship Bridge border for 50 baht per person at 8:30 a.m. every morning. If not, it's 100-150 baht per person to get to the border crossing with a tuk tuk. It takes about 15 minutes to get there. 

Once you get to the Chiang Khong Border office, head inside and they'll need to stamp you out. It was a quick process for us. 

From here, you'll need to buy a bus ticket to cross the bridge to get to Huay Xai. It costs 25 baht per person for the ticket. 

Chiang Khong Border Office

Chiang Khong Border Office

Bus to cross the bridge

Once you get to Huay Xai, you'll need to get your visa. Fill out the two forms and hand your passport over to them to make your visa. You'll also need 1 passport picture (we did ours in Khao San Road for 150 baht for 8 pictures). After they're done processing it, you'll need to pay for it. For Canadians, it's $42 USD. But please note on weekends, they charge an extra $1 as an overtime fee. So, it was actually $43 USD for us, or 1740 Baht. The prices for the visa vary depending what your nationality is. But I know Canadians pay the most. 

Apply for your visa at the right window. When it's ready, you can pay for it at the left window. 

Before you leave the border office, you can use one of the ATMs there to take out Laos currency (Kip). They also take baht as well, so if you still have baht you want to use, feel free! 

From here, you'll need to take a tuk tuk to get to the slow boats. It's 100 baht, non-negotiable and takes about 15 minutes to get there. 

Step 3: Taking the Slow Boat from Huay Xai to Pakbeng

Once your tuk tuk drops you off, head up to the ticket office to purchase your ticket. It costs 110,000 kip per person to get from Huay Xai to Pakbeng. Each ticket comes with a number that corresponds to your seat, so it's best to get there early to purchase. We didn't luck out, and were one of the last people to board. So, we were stuck in the engine room, which is loud, hot and smells like fuel. 

It's a 6 hour boat ride from here with a few stops along the way to drop off and pick up locals. It's a pretty neat ride. You'll see beautiful landscapes, wild animals and villages along the way. However, if you're low on time, I wouldn't recommend taking the slow boat since the scenery gets repetitive. 

The boat leaves around 11 a.m. and gets to Pakbeng around 5 p.m.

Step 4: Overnight stay at Pakbeng

Once you get off the boat, you'll be bombarded by people trying to get to stay at their guesthouse. Don't give into it. It's better to take a look around yourself to see if you like the room itself. We walked around to a few places and settled into Bounmy Guesthouse (100,000 Kip for a private room). The restaurant there has a gorgeous view where you can see elephants across river in the morning. 

Elephants across the river! 

Step 5: Slow boat from Pakbeng to Luang Prabang

Wake up early to get a head start on the day. You'll want to head down to the slow boat first to grab a good seat. The slow boat tickets aren't numbered, so you'll have the chance to pick your seat. You can leave your pack on your seat to save it before heading back up to grab breakfast and some snacks for the ride. 

The boat leaves around 9:30 a.m. and you'll have your chance to buy the ticket on the boat. The ride takes around 8 hours, so you should get there by 5:30 p.m. 

Just note that the boat drops you off 10 kilometres before Luang Prabang, so you'll have to take a tuk tuk to get into town. It costs 20,000 kip per person. The tuk tuk will drop you off at the city centre, right by the post office and night market. 

See, it's not so bad to do it on your own. 

Happy Travelling!